Daljeet stretched her long legs and looked out of the window as far as possible, to see any signs of Dolakha the village town that the bus was headed for. It was nearly 5 hours since they had started from Kathmandu and she was tired. She was lucky to be sitting on the left side of the bus as the lofty snow-capped peaks towering above the deep river valley was on her side. Being in the lap of nature she had given all her worries a back seat for the time being.

She took out her notebook to jot down the names of the highway towns/cities they had passed so that she could write in her memoirs – the bustling town of Dolalghat, at the confluence of two snow-fed rivers Sunkoshi, and the Indrawati (a tributary of Sunkoshi). Dolalghat is famous for fish, and the strong aroma of fried fish, had breezed in through the windows when the bus had stopped there. The river Bhotekosh, the town of Mude (at height of 2,500 m) with stunning view in the north of snow-clad peaks, including the Kalinchok ridge. Mude is famous for its delicious potatoes and huge sacks were stacked by the roadside. Now for Kharidunga and then finally Dolakha her destination for the day.

With her notebook back in the bag she wondered if her decision was hasty and impulsive? She had decided to take a six-month sabbatical for an immersion experience in a rustic far away Buddhist nunnery. Her family was shattered with this decision and had tried their best to shake her out of it.  Pappaji (Punjabi word for father) had said a firm No and Mummyji (Punjabi word for mother) blamed the former for not finding a marriage match at the right time. Nobody told Bee ji (paternal grandmother) or Daar ji (paternal grandfather) as it would be difficult for them to believe why a religiously brought up Sikh girl would like to leave Nanak ji’s durbar even for 6 months.

The bus braked suddenly, and a young tall, youth with a helmet in hand climbed in. He went behind probably to the end of the bus and then came and sat on the seat in front of her . There were hardly 20 passengers so plenty of room.

Chapter 2

 Back to her thoughts she remembered her visit to Myanmar last year when  Chewa (Buddhist name meaning great or powerful ) one of her colleagues in the Yangon branch of her office told her excitedly about her 3 month immersion in a Buddhist nunnery and how much she enjoyed it . Chewa had chosen a monastery in Yangon (capital city) and had even extended her stay for a month. She had gladly shaved off her head and now back at work was sporting a fashionable headgear, the kind that Nigerian women wore.

Shaving off her hair was going to be the most difficult decision for Daljeet, and she did not have the courage to even mention to her parents. Being from the Sikh community, she had not even cut her hair for all her 28 years, so shaving off now would have been a real offensive on the family. However, the nunnery will not take her in without it. This is probably the only thing which could probably make her reverse her decision. She will try her best to retain it as she was dearly attached to her hair as normally young girls of her age would.

On completion of her 28 Birthday she applied for the sabbatical which was luring her from the day,  Chewa mentioned the nunnery experience to her. She searched and searched and decided on one of the remotest nunneries in Bigu, Nepal. The other choice was in Sikkim but she wanted to go outside the country. 

The nunnery in Bigu was not open to immersions, so Chewa had to use a lot of her connections to get  Daljeet this opportunity. But the nunnery had clearly mentioned that it was a very rustic life where a lot of physical labour was part of the routine and that Daljeet will have to strictly observe all the rules of the monastery.

Suddenly the youth in front turned around and breaking her train of thought asked – Hindi, English? She smiled and replied I speak both! I am Bhimsen he smiled folding his hands in a Namastey! The name suited his tall broad structure which looked fit for this mountain terrain. She smiled and folded her hands and said – I am Daljeet. He turned to face her more comfortably with one hand on the seat in front of him and the other on the seat in front of her. Are you Nepalese she asked and again he smiled – My parents are a mixture of Tibetan, Bhutanese and Nepalese so you can choose which country you want to place me in.

He asked her where she was going and without revealing much she carefully said – Bigu. Where in Bigu he asked interested?  Well I am going to meet someone she carefully replied . His English was perfect with no accent and if there was, it was an Indian one . Well, I stay in Bigu and we have a guest house there, he continued . Bigu is a very small village and I know each and every family there . My mother was born there and stayed there for some time before she married dad and went to Bhumtang in Bhutan. Daljeet was surprised and confused but realised that she could not hide it anymore . The Ani Tashi nunnery ,she said slowly and looked out of the window hoping he won’t press for more.

Suddenly he got up and came and sat next to her . You are going to Ani Tashi to join them, he asked excited? She nodded and he continued -You know my mom used to be in the nunnery years back. Her family was very poor and they could not get her married so sent her to the nunnery. She used to work in the paddy and maize fields when my dad spotted her as a young girl and fell in love . How sweet she thought to herself . Daljeet what makes you join the nunnery? You look educated and a modern young lady.

Err, she hesitated,  I am going to be with them for three months for an experience. He looked doubtful and said but that is not usually allowed?. They have not modernised much even after rebuilding the monastery after the earthquake and usually it is the girls from in and around Bagmati Pradesh which go there. 

Chapter 3

How much could she divulge to the stranger ? Tell me about you she said shifting attention from herself. Oh I have a very simple story. My father and his ancestors have run restaurants and guest houses in Bhutan. I did my last two years of schooling in Calcutta and then I was sent to Singapore for my graduation and Masters in Finance . I wanted to work there but my parents wanted me back here . So I am engaged in our family business .

My mother missed her native place so a couple of years back we started a guest house here in Bigu. So I and my dad divide our time between Bigu , and Bhumtang while mother is stationed here in Nepal.  By the way if you are wondering about my name – Bhimsen is the God of Trade and Business, he smiled and stopped. You can call me Bhim, he added.

Tell me about the nunnery she asked ? Daljeet it is really hard there and I don’t know who recommended you? Most of the nuns in Ani Tashi come from very poor families and are forcibly sent there as children. The nunnery was originally set up by a Tibetan Lama. All the nuns have to be supported by their families as per the norms of the nunnery. The rich Sherpa’s of the village have donated some land to the nunnery and the nuns work in the field . Some of them even beg for alms and food . Are you prepared for all this ? You look from a well off family. Why would you want to do this even for a month?

Daljeet told him about Chewa and how she herself had been inspired and wanted to have the experience . I have also opted for begging for alms once a day , because my colleague said it is the most humbling experience . Definitely not because, I cannot afford it . Some experience it will be he said and gave her a surprised look. And then suddenly he turned and asked her again- what about this lovely long hair – they will not make an exception for you. All humans have an attachment to their crowning glory and the monasteries and nunneries don’t promote any kind of attachment. You will have to shave it off and if you decide to go from here it will take you 10 years to grow it back. She sighed and grew sad.

Chapter 4

Bhim suddenly got up and went to the driver and said something. He seemed to know him and came back and asked her – Have you seen Mount Gaurishankar before? The twin snow clad peaks signifying the union of Gauri and Shankar ? I have asked the driver to stop when we reach there. It is just as we are approaching Dholakha. For some time they sat in silence besides each other .

Apparently Bhim had gone to Dolalghat and Mude for the weekly purchase of fish and potatoes for his guest house. His mother was very particular about fresh food for the guests. His small four wheeler with refrigeration facilities had taken the goods and left while Bhim was following on his motorbike. The bike suddenly stopped and had to go to the garage. He had then stopped the bus for a ride to Dholaka. He too was staying the night at Dholaka where he would borrow a friends bike  for the rest of the journey to Bigu. He had offered to take her to Bigu on the bike, but Daljeet told him about her prefixed plan.

The Sherpa Inn in Dholakha was to house her for the night and tomorrow morning she would start her 3-day journey on foot to Bigu, the small village in Bagmati Pradesh of North East Nepal. A senior nun from Ani Tashi would come in tomorrow morning to the Inn to accompany her for the onward journey to the nunnery. Although there was a motorable road to Bigu, the two earthquakes in the region had left it damaged and in poor quality and it had witnessed quite a few accidents. The authorities in the nunnery had recommended that the journey on foot will familiarise her for the 3 months ahead.

Daljeet was looking forward to the mountain trail on foot and was travelling very light. As per instructions she was not supposed to get any electronics, phone, personal items (except toothbrush). No creams, comb, pillows bedsheets, pair of shoes etc.

The bus suddenly drew to a halt and Bhim said – C’mon I will show you the Gaurishankar peaks!  He took her bag pack and his helmet and kept it near the driver . They both got down along with a few other passengers . Bhim led her to the top of some rocks a little ahead of the bus and to the other side of the road . He helped her to climb the rocks and pointed in the direction of the majestic snow clad peaks . She was awestruck and kept staring imagining Shiva and his consort Gauri. It was a beautiful sight and they both stared at it for some time till the heard the honk of the bus.

Come,  Bhim jumped down and helped her to descend from the rock. As they walked to the bus he said my mother said if any couple watches the Gaurishankar peak for 3 times together they will get married. She looked back shocked and he laughed loudly. I wanted to see if you are alive after seeing the beauty of Gauri Shankar?

So the mighty Bhim had a sense of humour too, she thought to herself. At Dholaka they parted saying bye and Bhim said no point giving you my number as you wont be allowed to use the phone. Please think again, were his parting words . Maybe you can have a similar experience without cutting your hair? I know what it means for a girl he said smilingly. It left her even sadder.

Chapter 5

Nun Tara was very friendly and the three days spent with her on foot, to reach Ani Tashi in Bigu, was very easy going and extremely informative. Tara spoke broken Hindi and some English too. She had travelled quite a bit and was invited by Lama Yeshe Dorjee (spiritual head of Ani Tashi) to teach Kung Fu to the nuns in Ani Tashi.

This was a complete surprise for Daljeet and she was eager to know more. It has not been easy, said Tara. There are 4, very senior nuns and they are rigid and oppose everything new. I have been here for 3 months but have not had a chance to get started yet . Even though the world is opening up the young girls are still brought up in the old ways . You will learn more about it , don’t worry she smiled.

Daljeet got to know about the nunnery, the daily routine, the work in the fields , begging for alms? Except for thought of shaving off her hair she was looking forward to everything else.

Bigu at 8400 feet, north east of Kathmandu, was near the Tibetan border. It was the epicenter of the May 12 2015 earthquake in Nepal and all its aftershocks. 90% of the buildings in this area had been destroyed , said Tara. While they were walking in the mountains it did rain for some time and they had to stop for a couple of hours . When cloudy they could hardly see the landscape and Daljeet was disappointed . It was the beauty of the mountains which kept her going and took away all her tiredness. Of course she had practiced well in the gym before starting her journey. The slopes were covered with terraced fields. Houses with their roofs of stone, blue and red were spread over the landscape .

Do you know Bhimsen and his family, Daljeet asked Tara ? Yes how do you know them? Have you been here before asked Tara? No I met him in the bus, said Daljeet. They are one of the richest family in Bigu and they have a guest house . The provide the nunnery with grains and fruits on a monthly basis . Oh ! said Daljeet . But Bhim is a very simple man- he works in his own fields too, said Tara.

Suddenly on top of a peak Tara stopped and beckoned to Daljeet to come close. She pointed to another small peak in front and said – Ani Tashi! There it was, a reasonably big , red brick building with prayer flags and surrounded by green fields . This was going to be her home for the next couple of months .It will take us another hour, because now it is downhill and the small hill top of Ani Tashi is not difficult . Her spiritual journey was about to begin soon and now there was no going back, or could she ?

to be continued as Chapter 6